The Sandpoint Eater: The art of food

By Marcia Pilgeram
Reader Columnist

I said July would be a big month, and it is! Did you know July is National Baked Bean, Hot Dog, Ice Cream, Pickle and Picnic Month? It’s true, and I did my best to honor all those distinctions mentioned above on the Fourth of July alone. I don’t remember a more idyllic holiday weekend. The Moscow Five came up, and we hiked to Kootenai Falls, swayed across “that bridge” and walked among the stately Ross Cedars — and that was just on one day! 

The next day we rose at dawn, and I helped the crew pack up for their annual trek up Scotchman Peak. They are hearty; even 8-year-old Fern made it to the summit (fortunately, someone had to stay behind to look after their dog). The following morning, my tired hikers rallied as we were invited to celebrate the Fourth of July at a friend’s slice of paradise (just a couple docks down from Bottle Bay Resort). Amid happy kids, dogs, paddle boats and boards, and myriad inflatables, our day and food were perfect.

We shared menu responsibilities for the traditional picnic fare: barbecue ribs and chicken; macaroni and shrimp salad; deviled eggs; potato salad; baked beans; homemade sourdough bread; and tall frosty, root beer floats. 

Doesn’t get any better than that! 

With all that talk of food, it seems fitting that July is also National Culinary Arts Month, celebrated to honor hardworking professional chefs, bakers and cooks. 

When I started in the food business, there were limited opportunities to attend an accredited culinary school. Many of us received training on the line — “cooking in the trenches” — and earning certification through the American Culinary Federation (ACF). 

Today there are hundreds of schools where you can become an accredited chef. There are also online courses, virtual academies and apprenticeships where you can learn the art of cooking and more. Schools offer specialty courses and certification for caterers, food truck operators, butchers, bakers and chocolatiers. The ACF even has a Young Chefs Club. 

Some of these schools can set you back as much as a degree from an Ivy League school. The Culinary Institute of America offers prestigious culinary degrees in the U.S. at its Hyde Park, N.Y.; Greystone, Calif; and San Antonio, Texas campuses. Internationally, Darina Allen’s Ballymaloe Cookery School in County Cork, Ireland, offers a world-class program. 

The most notable international culinary program is Le Cordon Bleu, founded in Paris in 1895. Le Cordon Bleu has campuses worldwide, and though the 16 U.S. campuses closed in 2017, the school still has a presence in New York to assist U.S. student placements worldwide.  

The famous film Sabrina was set in Paris, starring Audrey Hepburn, who took classes at Le Cordon Bleu and learned to make a classic French omelet. 

Renowned chef and cookbook author Julia Child studied there in 1948, beginning her illustrious culinary career. She was not only known for her teaching, but also entertained us while she whipped up classic French cuisine. Armed with the Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cookbook and televised tutorials from Julia and her great pal, Chef Jacques Pépin, I did learn to master a lot of French dishes.  

I’m not crazy about many of today’s celebrity chefs on the Food Network Channel, but I learned a lot in the television kitchens of Julia and Jacques. Many of their recipes were simple, and while they took their craft seriously, the pair of fun-loving gourmands weren’t over-the-top intimidating. I learned a lot of helpful food handling and cooking techniques from the shows and their cookbook, Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home.

Before farm-to-table crusades became popular (thanks partly to Alice Waters, owner/chef of Chez Panisse and a founder of the Slow Food movement), Julia encouraged us to use all the fresh seasonal foods — especially vegetables and fruit. 

In honor of National Culinary Arts Month (and a great harvest of huckleberries), it seems the perfect time to prepare one of my favorite huckleberry desserts. And it was fortunate that Ryanne left me with a partial loaf of her perfect homemade sourdough bread. The tanginess of the sourdough balances nicely with the sweet ingredients. It’s a favorite dessert at my house and never lasts long. 

I’m sure Julia and Jacques would even ask for seconds if they were here. Bon appetit!

Huckleberry bread pudding recipe • The perfect huckleberry recipe for a potluck or picnic dessert, as it travels well. This can also be made in individual small Mason jars or ramekins. For variation, add 1 cup white chocolate chips with the huckleberries. Serves 6-8.

Ingredients

• 4 large eggs

• 4 large egg yolks

• ½ tsp salt

• 1 cups white sugar

• ½ cup brown sugar

• 1 tsp pure vanilla extract

• 1 tsp nutmeg (freshly grated if available)

• 1 medium orange, zested

• 3 cups whole milk

• 2 cups heavy cream

• 1 loaf dry sourdough, cut into ½-inch slices

• ½ cup melted butter, divided

• 1 pound fresh huckleberries

Directions

Whisk eggs, egg yolks, salt, white sugar and brown sugar together in a large bowl until mixture turns light and frothy, about 1 minute. Add vanilla, nutmeg, orange zest, milk and cream. Whisk again until well mixed. 

Fill a dish that’s large enough to hold the baking dish ⅓ full with water (a water bath). Place in oven and preheat to 375 degrees (a water bath will ensure a creamier pudding).

Brush 2 tablespoons melted butter in the bottom and sides of the 9×11-inch baking dish or 2 qt oval casserole. 

Tear ⅔ of bread and place in buttered baking vessel. Pour ½ egg mixture over top, press bread down to soak up egg mixture. Add the huckleberries and gently press them down into the bread. Add remaining bread, and pour remaining custard batter over top and brush with remaining melted butter. Let sit 15-20 minutes so custard soaks into bread. 

Lightly dust top of pudding with granulated sugar and carefully place in the preheated water bath, in oven. Bake until it’s puffed and golden brown, about 45 minutes. Turn oven down to 325 and bake another 15 minutes. Let sit for at least 20-30 minutes before serving.

Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.  

Garnish with toasted almond slices or ice cream. Or both.