The Sandpoint Eater: Pucker up

By Marcia Pilgeram
Reader Columnist

When Sandpoint’s Dillon family opened Panhandle Cone and Coffee, I recall their new storefront having a lot of quiet days. Like many food startups, I wasn’t sure they were going to make it (and there may have been days they thought the same). 

But now, most hot summer days you’ll find folks queued up, with the line snaking out the door and down the sidewalk. Even my impatient self has been known to line up for an orange and dark freckles chocolate cone (and a third of my grandchildren can vouch for the same lines at the Moscow location). I love seeing this hard-working family succeed and my clan is doing their best to keep it that way (and I’m never at a loss for gift-giving. Gift cards purchased at Panhandle Cone and Coffee in Sandpoint can also be redeemed at the Coeur d’Alene and Moscow shops). 

My gang likes ice cream all year long, but gosh, these long, hot summer days especially scream for ice cream. And whether you’re buying a bulk tub of Blue Bunny vanilla or a $20 dollar pint of an artisanal Catalan crème, chances are you’ve already had your share of a creamy frozen confection this summer. 

Long before ice cream making was discovered, clever people looking to beat the heat with a frozen treat discovered sorbet. Even more than ice cream, sorbet is among my favorite summer quenchers. I like sherbet too, but sorbet is lighter and more tart. The other noticeable difference is sherbet contains dairy, while sorbet is basically fruit juice, sugar, water and a bit of zest. 

I am not 100% sure of its provenance, but I think we can thank the Italians for perfecting the art of combining fruit juices with sugar to create this frozen dessert, known in Italy as sorbetto. It’s similar to Italian ice, though sorbet’s smooth texture is achieved by churning/blending the mixture as it freezes, while Italian ice is not blended once it’s in its partially frozen state, so it’s more granular. 

Last spring, along the Amalfi coast of Italy — in picturesque villages like Ravello, Positano and Minori — I had my choice of local vendors, who lined the cobblestone streets selling lemon sorbet in frozen lemon shells. The scent of the yellow citrus confection was intoxicating and refreshing. On a warm day nothing cools the palate like the sweet/tart taste upon your tongue.  

On this same visit, I discovered sgroppino, a light and tart cocktail made with lemon sorbet, chilled vodka and prosecco. Oh, how I wish I had discovered this libation about 40 years sooner. And, once again, we can thank the creative Italians for perfecting this fine cocktail. I honestly can’t think of a more perfect cocktail to serve in the summer. 

I’m not sure sgroppino will rival Reader Staff Writer Soncirey Mitchell’s Lord of the Rings cocktails (featured in last week’s Reader), but I’ll let you know after I’ve had a chance to sample all of her cocktails. Be patient, dear readers. It’s a big job but someone has to do it. 

Meanwhile, as you wait with great anticipation, go ahead and whip up a batch of sorbet so you’re ready, at a moment’s notice, to serve your friends a fine batch of sgroppino.

Tart and light lemon sorbet and sgroppino cocktail

Photo by Fern Meuff.

A lovely palate cleanser between courses. Makes 2 cups.

INGREDIENTS:

Sorbet:

• 1 cup sugar

• 1 cup water

• 3 tbsp finely grated lemon zest

• ¾ cup fresh-squeezed lemon juice

Sgroppino cocktail:

• 2 cups (one batch) of lemon sorbet

• 4 oz Tito’s Vodka, chilled

• 8 oz chilled prosecco

• Lemon zest 

DIRECTIONS:

Sorbet:

Place sugar and water in a small saucepan; bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. Reduce heat; simmer, uncovered, 2 minutes. Cool completely. Pour into large bowl of standup mixer.

On low speed, pour in lemon zest and juice and mix for a minute. Freeze in mixing bowl, until firm, about 1 ½ hours.

Return bowl to mixer and use whisk attachment, on low, for a minute or two — incorporating more air results in a lighter sorbet. Freeze until firm, about 4 hours.

Serve — or move to a pre-chilled freezer storage container with a tight-fitting lid — until ready to use.

Garnish each serving with a twist of lemon peel, mint or fresh berries. 

Sgroppino cocktail:

In a cocktail shaker, whisk together 2 cups of sorbet and a splash of prosecco until fully incorporated. While whisking, slowly pour in the chilled vodka, then the remainder of the prosecco. Shake well. Serve in a chilled martini glass or coupe. Garnish each drink with lemon zest. Serve immediately while still icy.