The Sandpoint Eater: Benito & Nonna

By Marcia Pilgeram
Reader Staff

Hopefully, all of my edible Italian treasures — carefully wrapped and crammed into every nook and cranny of luggage space — will find their way past U.S. Customs, and upon my return home these ingredients will provide me with a couple good meals to share with friends or family. This time, I even have a double-wrapped sack of flour in my bag. 

I’ve always loved pizza, and after several days in Sorrento (prior to a travel conference I’m attending in Venice), I have a whole new love for this Italian mainstay. I just learned that pizza was invented in Naples, so it’s no wonder that it would be a staple in Sorrento, less than 30 miles away. And less (ingredients) is more. All the pizza I devoured was simply prepared with few ingredients, then cooked in a hot, wood-burning oven. The crusts were out of this world; light and airy, yet crispy, too.

I was part of a small group of travel advisors from the U.S., Spain, London and Toronto there to experience the sites and foods of Sorrento and surrounding areas. Beth from London told me that on her last visit, she bought every ingredient for dough making in Naples; salt, flour, olive oil and yeast. She couldn’t wait to get home and begin making pizza for her friends. She remarked that the taste didn’t come close to the pizza of Naples. Our host was quick to explain: “It’s all in the water.” Who knew?

Maybe Benito, an older, seasoned pizza maker, could have shared that secret, too. He has been hand-making the pizza at Hotel Mediterraneo (a five-star coastal hotel in Sorrento) for more than 50 years. The hotel was originally the villa of the current owners’ great grandmother. From kitchen duties to upper management, the operation involves many generations of famiglie. Pietro, the general manager of the hotel, was yet to be born when Benito began his pizza career at the hotel.

While I was a guest of the hotel, I was able to experience Easter and Easter Monday, known as La Pasquetta (little Easter). It is about celebrating Christ meeting his disciples post-resurrection. It’s also “Monday of the Angel,” about Mary Magdalene meeting an angel at Jesus’ empty tomb.

In Southern Italy, La Pasquetta is more celebrated than the Sunday holiday. We feasted on a sumptuous brunch that included lots of Benito’s pizza, tables laden with savory pasta, meat and fish dishes typical to the region, and varieties of traditional Easter dessert breads. Afterwards, the children gathered to crack open a huge chocolate egg, and dig into all the treats to be discovered inside. 

When we could eat no more, the music began, and everyone from young children to great-grandparents danced around the pool until sunset. Family is everything, and seniors are honored and well-loved (almost revered) by all. I dream that one day Pietro’s own adorable son Carlo (who was never far from his father’s side) might be hosting my great-grandchildren in Sorrento. 

I came upon another fitting example of extended family in Amalfi. While touring a retail ceramic shop, our small group of ladies was invited to see the upstairs workshop. While the others were inspecting brightly colored ceramics, I followed my nose to the aroma of a little kitchen where I came upon a tiny gray-haired woman stirring a simmering pot. Though surprised to see me, she was most gracious and allowed me to take her photo. When I returned to my group, I told the shop owner about my encounter. Proudly, he told me, “That’s Nonna, my 87-year-old mother. She cooks lunch every day for all 25 employees. The purpose of providing for all of us keeps her young.” 

May we all find such purpose. Let’s start with the zucchini pizza.

Zucchini with Blossoms Pizza Pie

This recipe comes to you from Sorrento, and seems like the perfect pizza for us, too. Make this when your zucchini has blossoms and young squash. Good olive oil, mozzarella and fresh Parmesan are key! Makes four 12-inch pizzas.

Ingredients:

• Four 8-oz balls of pizza dough

• 1 1/2 cups pancetta (omit for vegetarian)

• 1/2 cup good quality olive oil

• 3 peeled garlic cloves, chopped

• 4 small Zucchini, washed, trimmed and thinly slices

• 20 very small Zucchini flowers, stems and stamens trimmed off

• 2 cups mozzarella, shredded

• 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

• Cracked black pepper

• Coarsely ground sea salt

• 1/2 cup pine nuts

Directions:

Preheat oven to 450 Fahrenheit.

In a skillet, sauté the pancetta to lightly brown (or just saute garlic).

Roll out dough balls one at a time to 12-inch diameter and place on a baking sheet or pizza pan that has been lightly sprinkled with corn meal.

Lightly brush the top of dough with olive oil and scatter 1/2 cup of mozzarella over dough. Place 1/4 of the zucchini slices, pancetta and garlic on top of the cheese. Top with 1/4 of the blossoms. Brush again lightly with olive oil, and top with black pepper, salt, pine nuts and Parmesan.

Bake until the cheese is bubbly and the crust is lightly browned. Cut into 4 slices and serve immediately.

There are no leftovers!