The Sandpoint Eater: Aw shucks

By Marcia Pilgeram
Reader Columnist

I was raised a middle-class Irish Catholic, but my grandmother Irma (Gram) still laid some pretty lovely food on our holiday table, and one of my favorite food memories is supping buttery, creamy oyster stew on Christmas Eve. Those bivalves were not of the fresh variety but came to us in small, shelf-stable tins as Blue Cove Oysters. Then, I couldn’t imagine anything more delicious.

After opening the can, Gram would drain the juice in a saucepan, to which she added heavy cream and placed it on the stove at a low simmer. After the liquids were reduced and steaming hot, she’d add the oysters, salt and pepper, and loads of butter. When I was young, I was a bit tentative about eating the oysters, but it didn’t stop me from slurping up more than my share of the luxuriously rich liquid that bathed them.

Earlier this month, I was in France, where you’ll find fresh oyster stalls at every Christmas market and featured in every restaurant. Like me, Parisians are crazy for fresh oysters (half of them eaten in France are consumed between Christmas and New Year’s), so it seemed a likely place to purchase a sturdy new oyster knife. At the boutique culinary shop, E. Dehillerin, there were more than a dozen knives from which to choose. I speak no French, and with his limited English, the clerk helped me select a sleek steel knife with a sturdy wooden handle. With great anticipation of the upcoming holidays, I could hardly wait to get it home.

I’m so grateful that Gram introduced me to holiday oysters; they’ve been a tradition for our family ever since. We’re fortunate to be somewhat close to the coast, and we can have an excellent shipment of Washington or Oregon oysters delivered fresh on ice within a day or two of ordering. I usually choose a variety; the smallest will get shucked to be eaten fresh on their half shell, and the larger ones are shucked and saved for classic Oysters Rockefeller.

The original recipe for Oysters Rockefeller was created in 1889, far from the Pacific Coast, at the iconic Antoine’s Restaurant in New Orleans. It soon became synonymous with indulgence and festive gatherings.

According to legend, toward the end of the 19th century, Antoine’s was under the leadership of second-generation owner Jules Alciatore. Seeking to create a luxurious and distinctive dish, Jules drew inspiration from France’s popular escargot, and Oysters Rockefeller was born, replacing hard-to-come-by snails with luscious Gulf oysters. Jules infused the dish with rich flavors like butter, garlic and green herbs.

The recipe for Oysters Rockefeller remains a secret at fifth-generation-owned Antoine’s, the oldest restaurant in New Orleans. The dish is shrouded in mystery and tradition, though it always features oysters on the half shell, topped with a lush, verdant mixture of finely chopped herbs such as parsley, green onions and celery. The pièce de résistance is the creamy sauce pooled around the oyster. 

New Year’s Eve, synonymous with grand celebrations, became the perfect stage for Oysters Rockefeller. The dish’s association with this festive occasion lies not only in its luxurious ingredients and decadent preparation, but also in the traditions that families create around it. (I’m not even sure where my Montana family originally sourced oysters for this dish — maybe they came from a can, too!)

I hope as we raise and clink our glasses this week to welcome the new year, the richness of family and friendships, and great food and drink, will serve as a reminder of the importance of savoring life’s indulgences with those we love.

My recipe for these savory oysters is not secret, so whether embracing loving family traditions or creating new ones, you don’t need to be rich or a Rockefeller to enjoy this timeless holiday classic. So please share a platter of Oysters Rockefeller with your loved ones as we wave farewell to the old year and greet the new one with joyous anticipation. Cheers!

Oysters Rockefeller

Serves 8-10 people.

This dish is rich and decadent; serve with brut Champagne. 

Many recipes call for spinach, I prefer green kale as it gives the mixture more dimension in the shell.

Ingredients:

• 1 bunch green onions, finely minced, using top ⅓ of the greens

• ½ cup butter, cubed

• 1 tbs fresh parsley, minced

• 1 cup finely chopped green kale

• 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

• 1 tablespoon lemon juice

• ⅛ teaspoon white pepper

• 3 dozen medium-sized fresh oysters in the shell, washed (before shucking)

• 2 pounds kosher salt

Directions:

In a large skillet, saute onion in butter until tender. Add kale and parsley, stir and cook until wilted. Remove from the heat; when cool, stir in cheese, lemon juice and pepper.

Line 2 sheet pans with foil and cover/spread with a layer of kosher salt. Shuck the oysters, carefully reserving the liquid in the bottom shell. Lightly press half the oyster shells, per pan, down into the salt to keep them level. 

Top each oyster with 2 tsp of the t mixture. 

Bake, uncovered, in preheated oven, at 450° F 6-8 minutes. Oysters should be plump and fragrant. Don’t overcook! Garnish with lemon wedges and fresh kale. Serve immediately.