The Sandpoint Eater

By Marcia Pilgeram
Reader Columnist

It was good seeing Bego again. She owns the Cook and Taste Cooking School in Barcelona. When we met last September, we made plans for my ladies’ group to experience a morning of shopping at a local market, followed by an afternoon of cooking at her establishment. She’s not fond of fuss, loathes technology and doesn’t do email, so there was no follow-up after our meeting. It turns out it wasn’t necessary. 

When we arrived at the school, Bego introduced us to an attractive young woman who would be our guide and chef for the day. Soon enough, we were off to the Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria, one of Barcelona’s main markets. Mercat is the Catalan term for “market,” while mercado is the Spanish term, and our young Catalonian chef Mariona was quick to point out the difference. 

Mariona was a beloved market regular, and the vendors were happy to have her show and taste their wares to her curious American charges. At one stall, while bantering with a weathered old woman who Mariona described as “nearly my grandmother,” we learned all about the process of salting cod. 

One of the dishes we shopped for was garlic shrimp (gambas al ajillo). Some of the best shrimp in the world come from Spain and Portugal, and it’s found on nearly every menu in salads, paella, stew and tapas, so I thought it was a great selection for our first course. The mercat was teeming with shrimp, in every shape and size and color, piled high on ice, Carabineros prawns, one of the most enormous shrimp, were especially plentiful in the market. They live in deep water and are prized for their size, beautiful bright red color and distinct flavor, concentrated in their heads (which are never tossed but used for stocks and stews). 

Palamós shrimp live close to shore and are considered among the best in the world for their firmness and tasty meat. Stringent fishing restrictions apply to harvest these shrimp (not required for Carabineros prawns). Some say the Palamós has an almost lobster taste. 

Another plentiful crustacean sold at the market is Huelva white shrimp. Many chefs consider it the most classic shrimp of Spain, and it’s in high demand with culinary professionals throughout Spain and Italy. 

Mariona purchased a variety of ingredients, including Carabineros and Palamós, and we made our way back to the school as she pointed out highlights along our route. Soon, it was time to put on lively Spanish music, pour some wine and commence prepping. 

The first course we began to prepare didn’t much resemble the printed menus at our stations. As Mariona prepped the Carabineros, carefully setting aside the heads and shells, she gave her grandmother full credit and praise for the richness of the sauce we would soon sample. She explained that it was a Catalan recipe and stirred the simmering shrimp heads. She also spoke passionately about the history of Catalonia and her language — “It is not Spanish,” declared our fiercely proud chef. 

When I was in Barcelona last fall, I asked Bego if we could go to the Santa Caterina Mercado, as it would be much less crowded than Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria and also closer to the school. She agreed and made a note of my request, so I was surprised when Mariona led us past the colorful roof of the mercado, and we headed toward the mercat. 

After spending the day with her, Mariona’s choice made perfect sense. Her passion for all things Catalonian comes from the heritage and culture passed down for centuries. She grew up learning the ways of her grandmothers, who likely learned from her own grandmothers, at the same market from generations of stall dealers — still dealing in their family commodities, be they fish and seafood, fruits and vegetables, poultry or beef.  

When I make trip plans for individuals or groups, I always recommend a cooking and market class for travelers to experience. Often, the client wants all the fine details, which I may no longer offer. I’ll always be grateful I let Marion’s passion be my guide that day. 

As soon as I return home, I’ll be looking for some Carabineros prawns, and I hope I can do justice to her grandmother’s shrimp recipe so I can share it with her. Meanwhile, here’s a shrimp recipe I cook up often for friends and family.

Gambas al ajillo (Spanish garlic shrimp)
Serve with your favorite crusty bread to sop up the tasty sauce.
Serves 2-4

INGREDIENTS
• 1 lb large shrimp, peeled, deveined and rinsed well

• Kosher salt

• ½ cup extra virgin olive oil

• 10 garlic cloves, chopped 

• 1 tsp red pepper flakes

• 1  tsp sweet-Spanish-paprika

• 2 tbs dry sherry or dry white wine 

• Juice of ½ lemon

• ½ cup fresh flat parsley, finely chopped

DIRECTIONS
Pat the shrimp dry and season with kosher salt. Set aside for now.

Heat the extra virgin olive oil over medium heat until shimmering but not smoking. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes. Cook over medium heat up to 60 seconds or just until the garlic is soft and browns up just a little (be careful not to burn it).

Add the shrimp and paprika. Cook briefly, tossing regularly and watching that the flesh turns from opaque to a pale pink color (about 3 minutes or so for large shrimp). Remove the pan from heat.

Stir in sherry, lemon juice and parsley.

Transfer the shrimp and sauce to a serving bowl and serve while hot. Don’t expect leftovers!