The Sandpoint Eater: Traditions reimagined

By Marcia Pilgeram
Reader Columnist

It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas. Wrapping gifts, planning menus and making shopping lists, baking and lots of parties might be the norm for many of us; but, remember, it’s not for everyone. For a plethora of reasons, there are plenty of folks who shun the holiday. Family estrangements, divorces and depression leave some of us behind closed doors, sheltered in the safe space of our homes. 

This year, I am especially mindful of many grieving friends who lost a family member this year, and they are navigating a new normal for their holiday. And, too, let’s not forget the families of health care workers, first responders and all the others (airline pilots, railroad engineers and hospitality workers, to name a few) who will be working on our behalf on Christmas.

I have fit into the holiday worker category (in non-essential roles) more than once myself, and while I missed my family, I’ve had some noteworthy holiday gigs. Beside earning significant money, I’ve gathered a lot of fodder I’ll store for future storytelling (under the headings of “you can’t make this stuff up”). 

One Christmas, I served as chef on a fleet of private rail cars attached to the end of Amtrak’s westbound Empire Builder. Head-end train power outages were common, and I always held my breath at dinner time. I remember being immensely grateful as I plated perfectly baked beef Wellington on that particular Christmas trip. We served it to guests in the dome dining car and were rewarded with ooohs and ahhhs. Afterward, I paused for a long minute to watch as the winter pink-washed plains met the rising, snow-capped Rockies just east of Glacier. It was a magnificent holiday landscape that still lingers in my mind.

Another vivid (but not-much-fun) holiday experience was a 10-day stint as a live-in chef in Scottsdale, Ariz. I would prepare a six- to eight-course plated dinner for a small group of guests each night. Finally, I single-handedly laid out a holiday spread for 40 guests on Christmas Day. The clients were longtime rail clients; and, among private rail car owners, “Madam” was well known for frequent and disruptive outbursts. I’m here to tell you she also lived up to her rail reputation on terra firma. 

It was a long and tiring cooking engagement — challenging to prep, cook, serve and clean up under her ever-present and critical eye. That gig was a “one and done,” and the next 10 years I devoted to my growing gaggle of grandkids. They’re still the best holiday years of my life! 

From Moscow to Chicago, we’ve embraced a “make-your-own-family” approach to Christmas, welcoming everyone who needs a meal or companionship for the holidays. This inclusive spirit has led us to create new holiday traditions, from cooking up Feliz Navidad feasts to serving country-French dinners and enjoying takeout Chinese. The joy of these experiences has made us open to new traditions and excited for the holidays. 

Two years ago, I dusted off my houndstooth togs and spent Christmas cooking for 12 Hawaiians in a luxury Airbnb in Big Sky, Mont. Initially, I was contracted to oversee renting the home, planning the winter wonderland activities and arranging the catering. Still, I was so nervous the chef would be a no-show that I also decided to tackle the meals. A record cold snap kept the guests from many planned traditional winter experiences; but, near the heat of the crackling fireplace, I coached them through helping me with big batches of chili and cinnamon rolls, and they taught me how to roll a perfect musubi (Spam breakfast sushi). 

Even without my family present, it was a holiday that will long remain a favorite. 

Remember to check in on your friends and neighbors, no matter how or where we celebrate the holiday. Whether you’re roasting a goose, baking a ham or stirring up a pot of my sirloin and pancetta chili, make plenty! 

The older I get, the less “traditions” matter to me, but sharing good food with good people is a basic tradition we all need to practice. Now, go have yourself a delicious and Merry Christmas!

Sirloin and pancetta chili (‘best chili ever’)

The pancetta and sirloin add layers of flavor you won’t find with ground beef. Use tomato juice as needed to thin chili. Add any other toppings that will please your palate. Serves 8.

Ingredients:

• ¼ pound pancetta, finely chopped (about ½ cup)

• 2 tbs olive oil

• 2 pounds boneless sirloin steak, cubed

• 2 tsp coarse salt

• 2 large yellow onions, finely chopped (about 3 cups)

• 2 green bell pepper, finely chopped (about 2 cups)

• 4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

•3 tbs red chili powder

• 1 tbs cumin

• 2 tsp dried oregano

• 1 tsp freshly cracked black pepper

• ½ tsp cayenne pepper

• 2 tsp dark brown sugar or molasses

• ¼ cup tomato paste

• 2 15-ounce cans red kidney beans, drained and rinsed

• 2 14-ounce crushed or petite pieces of canned tomatoes

• 2 tbs unsweetened cocoa powder

• tomato juice

• sliced avocado, cilantro, diced jalapeños, grated cheddar, diced white onion, lime slices and sour cream for garnish when serving

Directions:

In a large heavy-bottomed 6-quart pot or a Dutch oven over medium-high heat, add the pancetta and cook, stirring often, until the fat has rendered and the pancetta is crisp, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove the pancetta and transfer to a bowl. Leave pancetta grease in pan. 

Add the oil, raise heat and brown the beef cubes. Remove the meat using a slotted spoon and transfer to the bowl with the pancetta.

Reduce the heat to medium high. Add the onions and pepper to the pot. Season with salt and cook, stirring often, until soft, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the garlic, chili powder, oregano, black pepper, cumin, cayenne and smoked paprika. Stir continuously until the spices are fragrant, but don’t let the garlic burn! 

Add the tomato paste and meats, crushed tomatoes and chocolate, and simmer over medium-low heat for 1 hour, add the beans and cook low for another hour, or until the flavors have melded together. Stir often so chili doesn’t stick in pan, stir in vinegar. Taste and adjust the seasoning to suit your crowd. 

Serve the chili with a side of warm corn bread and the above toppings.

Chili can be made 2 days ahead, then covered and chilled. Rewarm over low heat, adding tomato juice to thin.