The Sandpoint Eater: Pumpkin Eater

By Marcia Pilgeram
Reader Columnist

I’ve never understood the fuss about a Pumpkin Spice Latte (PSL) from Starbucks (and I am not the first Reader writer to note this). I didn’t even realize it’s still a thing until recently, when I saw an ad advising me that the iconic PSL turns 20 this year. To be truthful, I’ve yet to taste one, and I doubt I’ll take part in any of the milestone celebrations, nor purchase anything from the coveted swag line that includes limited-edition clothing and temporary tattoos.  

Whether served hot, cold, iced or blended, Starbucks’s PSL is its No. 1 seasonal seller. Starbucks claims that the PSL has become such a cultural phenomenon that Merriam-Webster officially added the term “pumpkin spice” to the dictionary last year. 

Wait a minute! What took them so long? My grandmother was whipping up homemade batches of pumpkin spice for her pies, bars and bread long before Starbucks brewed its first batch of beans.  

Well before Grandma Irma was creating goodies with her coveted concoction of cinnamon, cloves, ginger and nutmeg, Amelia Simmons had formed the earliest versions of spiced pumpkin pie in her cookbook, American Cookery, published in 1796. 

A common way to prepare it was to hollow the pumpkin, fill it with sweet, spiced milk and bake. I love to prepare small pumpkins this way, using coconut milk, and sometimes I add rice for the best pudding ever.

Starbucks is not alone in its quest to build a pumpkin-spiced empire. Currently, in addition to many beverage blends, you’ll find pumpkin spice Oreos and Pop-Tarts on supermarket shelves. But wait! There’s more! If you want to indulge in other esoteric possibilities, head to your nearest Trader Joe’s, where you’ll find at least 30 pumpkin-flavored products lining the shelves.

You can even find dog treats in TJ’s fall product lineup; please your pups with pumpkin-maple-bacon-stuffies dog bits. Feline-focus group cats knew better; alas, no kitty treats were to be found. 

Pumpkin spice products are not limited to things we ingest. You can even cover your body in lotions, soaps, scrubs, and shampoos.

Last year, I went to a local spa for a 90-minute massage package, including a body scrub. Though I was face down on the table, the pungent aroma of pumpkin spice wafted through the dimly lit room, which I assumed was the overly-fragrant candles scattered throughout the dimly lit room. But no, it was me! My masseuse was not so gently exfoliating my body with pumpkin spice scrub. It was a chilly fall day and, as I drove home, I turned up the heat in my car. Before I made the turn onto Kootenay Bay Road, I smelled like a pie that had been left too long in the oven. A warm shower helped immensely, but my car smelled like a bakery delivery van for days afterward.

Kudos to Costco for not jumping on the pumpkin-spice bandwagon. At least I didn’t see those types of products on my last visit there (though they had some enormous pumpkins for sale for less than $10). Their pumpkin pies are big — four pounds — and big sellers, too. If you aren’t a baker, you can pick one up for about six bucks.

I love this year’s assortment of fall pumpkins and squash for sweet and savory recipes alike.  Some of my favorites are pumpkin pies, breads, soups and rice, and I spice up many recipes with Irma’s original spice mix.

To each their own, but I can’t think of anything I’d rather not have in my latte than pumpkin spice. Unless it’s eggnog (oh, wait — that’s next month).

Meanwhile, let’s all welcome fall with this delicious and savory pumpkin risotto!

Pumpkin risotto

A savory alternative to pumpkin desserts. Grilled pumpkin is great as a stand-alone, and even better as the star of this risotto. Serve as an entrée or as a side dish with pork tenderloin. Serves 4.

Ingredients:

Pumpkin:

• 1 small sugar pumpkin 

• 1 tbs olive oil

• 1 tsp sea salt 

• 1 tsp fresh rosemary, finely minced 

Risotto:

• 2 tbs butter

• 2 tbs olive oil

• 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped 

• 1 shallot, finely chopped

• 4 cloves garlic, crushed and minced

• ½ tsp sea salt 

• ½ tsp white pepper

• 1 ½ cups Arborio (Italian short-grain) rice

• ½ cup white wine 

• 4 cups vegetable or chicken stock  

• ½ tsp nutmeg 

• 1 cup roasted pumpkin chunks

• ¾ cup Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmesan cheese

Directions:

Pumpkin grilling instructions:

Slice the pumpkin in half vertically, scoop clean, then cut horizontally, into ½ slices. Coat with the olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt and rosemary. Place on heated grill and cook each side about 4-5 minutes. Cool. Reserve the prettiest slices for garnish. Remove the skin from the rest, chop into 1” chunks and set aside. 

Instructions: 

In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter and olive oil and add in the chopped onion, shallot, salt and pepper. Cook slowly for about 20 minutes, add the garlic and cook another 15 or 20 minutes, stirring occasionally until the onions are soft, golden brown and just beginning to caramelize. 

In a medium saucepan, heat the stock over medium heat until simmering. 

Add in the rice to the onion mixture, stirring frequently, for 3 or 4 minutes. Add the white wine to deglaze the pan and scrape up any browned onion mix from the bottom of the pan. Stir in the pumpkin chunks and ½ cup warm stock and nutmeg. Stir risotto until the stock is completely absorbed, add in another ½ cup and repeat. Continue to add in the stock ½ cup at a time until it’s all absorbed and the rice is fully cooked. Be sure to keep the stock warm as you continue to add it. 

Stir in the Parmesan cheese until fully combined and creamy. Taste and add salt and pepper if needed.

Garnish with sage leaves and (optional) roasted pine nuts or pistachios. 

Serve hot and pass the extra Parmigiano-Reggiano.