The Sandpoint Eater: M&Mmmms

By Marcia Pilgeram
Reader Columnist

Earlier this week, in great anticipation of juvenile house guests arriving for Easter, I made a pilgrimage to Costco. As I perused the cereal aisle, the sweetest little family rolled by. The oldest of two boys, accompanied by his dad, was practicing highly animated free throws, tossing wadded-up sample cups into a trash receptacle.

Determined, but missing most of his shots, he kept at it while his dad gently tried to move him along. I reassured him I was one of the few shoppers in that frenzied crowd who was in no hurry. Meanwhile, the younger — and equally adorable — sibling, riding in the cart, caught sight of the edible treasures in mine. His eyes widened as he spotted the motherlode: a four-pound container of plain M&M’s. He licked his lips and said, “Mmmmm, M&M’s.”

Just like that, I was transported back more than 60 years.

Back then, a young girl named Marcia Martin would spy a package of M&M’s and feel certain they had been made just for her. I was as enchanted by the candy as I was by the packaging. Sometimes, I carefully cut out “my” letters and pasted them onto the doorway of my homemade cardboard Barbie Dreamhouse. I shared the M&M’s with Barbie and Ken, too — brown ones became burgers, yellow ones eggs, green ones vegetables, and orange ones transformed into ripe, luscious fruit.

It seems safe to say everyone loves M&M’s. Mars, Inc. produces about 400 million every day — nearly 100 billion a year. Still privately held, the company began as a family business in the early 20th century and has grown steadily ever since. In 1923, they introduced the Milky Way bar, one of the first candy bars (and one that’s still around today).

In 1940, Forrest Mars, the founder’s son, was living in Europe when he noticed soldiers eating chocolate candies with a hard shell that didn’t melt easily in the heat. Inspired, he partnered with Bruce Murrie, the son of Hershey’s president, and together they created a similar candy for the American market. They named it M&M’s — “M” for Mars, “M” for Murrie — and, I like to think, “M” for Marcia.

Since their creation, more than 50 flavors and just as many colors have come and gone. You can even order custom M&M’s online, printed with names, dates or photos for weddings, graduations and baby showers (Yes, I’m guilty). You can also visit one of their retail stores around the world — London’s is the largest, with over 35,000 square feet and more than 100 varieties.

For me, M&M’s are still the best part of any trail mix, perfectly complementing peanuts, pretzels and sunflower seeds. (Raisins, in my opinion, belong strictly in oatmeal cookies.) My personal snacking favorites are peanut M&M’s, but they’re a little large as a baking ingredient, so instead, I enjoy popping them into my mouth, savoring the candy shell, then the chocolate and finally the peanut. Occasionally, for a themed party, I am still a sucker for a particular, overpriced, colorful shade or two. Still, mostly, I am content with the original plain brown wrapper, adorned with my initials and filled with chocolatey goodness in primary colors.

They’re omnipresent in my baking pantry, and when little helpers show up, we bake the most delicious cookies with them. Funny thing, though: Even when we are not baking, the M&M’s seem to disappear with alarming speed.

Eighty years after their creation, they continue to be a favorite confectionery, and it still holds true: They melt in your mouth (and, maybe, your heart) but not in your hands.

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M&M Cookies

These kid-approved cookies are loaded with chocolate chips and M&M’s. They’re crispy on the edges, soft and chewy in the center, with plenty of chocolatey, peanut-y taste and texture throughout. You can substitute part of the chocolate chips with peanut butter chips. Yields 3 dozen large cookies.