The Sandpoint Eater: It’s Greek to me

By Marcia Pilgeram
Reader Columnist

If I haven’t been there, it’s likely on my list. This year, I will conquer one of my most ambitious travel schedules. First, I am off to Greece, home to repack before the month is over and then headed to Tahiti for a few hotel site inspections; but, more importantly, I timed the trip to Tahiti to surprise a favorite client who may need a little help navigating the start of his adventure. I’ll be home for Thanksgiving but then off to France before I have time to polish off granddaughter Fern’s first pumpkin pie.

It may sound glamorous, and at times it is, but it’s also a lot of work. I’m often the guest of a government tourism board, a tour company, hotel brand or even a start-up boutique hotel. While I love the opportunity these journeys afford (finding hidden travel gems I can’t wait to share with friends, families and clients), I’m also gracious and understanding that things go awry, like flight arriving hours late, and we’re finally seated for a five-course welcome dinner at 10 p.m. instead of 8 p.m. 

I don’t post a lot on social media, especially if I don’t have anything good to say, whether it’s a less-than-perfect hotel stay, a so-so five-course dinner at a newly starred Michelin restaurant or an activity that was canceled last minute because the small-time operators’ only tuk-tuk was stolen the night before my tour. I find so many reviews to be subjective, and mine would be, too. 

Sometimes, other participants I meet spend more hours engaged with their phones than our hosts, and I hear them sharing their “follower counts.” It’s never been my thing, and I can’t wrap my head around terms like influencer and micro-celebrity, and I would consider myself neither. Heck, I can’t even persuade or bribe my 6-year-old vegetarian grandson, Sam, to eat much of anything I cook. I have no influence over his 4-year-old sister, Runa Rae, who refuses to wear the adorable little togs I purchase on her behalf.

Since the huge influx of travel that began post-COVID, people have been hankering to pack their bags and journey to photo-worthy Instagram destinations. This phenomenon creates want and wanderlust in many folks (not unlike what we’re sadly seeing in our beloved town and region).

For instance, I used to have a couple of favorite little haunts: one in Dublin, Ireland and another in Seville, Spain. Time had forgotten both — they were quaint, quirky and uncrowded. Happenstance led me to both doors during long, solo exploratory walks. 

The pub in Dublin was full of late-afternoon characters, ladies with shopping bags stopping for a frothy pint before heading home, and seasoned musicians gathered to share an early evening of jamming and a bit of craic with longtime cronies. 

The bar in Seville was a landmark, featuring the oldest restaurant in the Andalusian city. I often lingered there at the standup bar, watching the aged bartender slice thin Iberico ham and pour rich red wine from barrels before it was served in jelly-glass portions. Bills were tallied with chalk on the worn, wooden bar. 

Last year, I called both locations on separate trips and the juxtapositions I witnessed were startling and even sad. Lines snaked around their ancient buildings. The Irish pub had doormen to expedite entry into the overcrowded space, and the Spanish bar was equipped with new point-of-sale electronics stationed next to the Iberico ham leg, waiting to be carved. 

It was a good reminder that even if I had thousands of social media followers, I wouldn’t be tempted to share the hidden gems I find along my upcoming trip to Greece. Instead, when I return, I’ll gather with a few friends and some good wine to share my finds, along with a few stories and a recipe or two that I hope to gather along the way (maybe I’ll even make them rewatch my favorite Greek chick-flick, Shirley Valentine).

For now, I’ll offer a recipe that was a standard of the Greek community in Missoula. I learned so much from them. I miss their annual festivals, filled with culture, tradition, and delicious foods, like this perfect-for-fall apple cake, milopita.

Greek apple cake recipe (milopita)

The Greek family that shared their recipe with me used Metaxa 7 Stars Greek brandy, added walnuts instead of pecans and added raisins to the batter. Feel free to try their version. Slice the apple rings as thin as possible. It makes for a lovely cake when you slice into it! Serves 6-10.

Ingredients:

• 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour

• 1 cup dark brown sugar

• 1 tsp baking powder

• 2 tsp ground cinnamon

• 3 apples, peeled and sliced into thin rings

• 1 cup full-fat Greek yogurt 

• 3 eggs

• 1 cup olive oil

• 1 tsp vanilla

• ½ cup toasted pecans 

• Confectioner sugar for dusting

• 2 Tbs brandy

• 1 Tbs brown sugar 

• 1 Tbs white sugar 

• Apple slices

Directions:

Preheat your oven to 325 F grease and line a (11”) springform pan with parchment paper. Coat lightly with olive oil, and turn paper so both sides are coated.

Peel apples and place in bowl with generous squeeze of lemon juice. Cut apples in half, core out center. Slice halves into thin rings (so they look like a donut). Leave in lemon water until batter is ready. Take about 6 nice slices, place on a plate and sprinkle the brandy, brown and white sugar on slices. 

In a large bowl combine the flour, brown sugar, baking powder and cinnamon. Whisk and set aside.

In another bowl combine the yogurt, eggs, olive oil, vanilla and whisk by hand to combine well.

Add the wet mixture to the dry and stir until just combined. Do not over-mix. 

Pour the brandy syrup onto the bottom of springform pan, arrange the 6 slices. Top with pecans. Pour enough batter to cover. Add another sprinkle of pecans. Add another layer of apples, pat down, add more batter and sprinkle of pecans. Repeat until you’re out of apples and batter. Tap lightly to settle.

Bake for about 40 mins (insert a skewer to check that it is cooked). Leave the cake in the pan for 10 mins, invert on a platter. Dust with sugar before serving. Wrap leftovers well, and refrigerate.