‘Pickles are a safe bet’

By Zach Hagadone
Reader Staff

It’s hard to understand how the phrase “in a pickle” came to signify an unpleasant situation. There’s nothing unpleasant whatsoever about a pickle — or anything that’s been pickled, for that matter. Need proof: Visit The Pickled Kitchen in its new digs at 334 N. First Ave. in the heart of downtown Sandpoint.

Cameron and Clarita Thrall at The Pickled Kitchen on First Ave. Photo by Zach Hagadone.

Owners Clarita and Cameron Thrall opened The Pickled Kitchen three years ago on the second level of the Cedar Street Bridge — “a great place to be and start out,” Clarita said, “but we just wanted our own space.”

However, as anyone who’s observed the Sandpoint area real estate market over the past few years knows, finding a space — whether commercial or residential — is harder than it sounds.

When the Thralls heard about the vacancy at 334 N. First Ave., the former MickDuff’s location, they knew that’s where they wanted to be.

Cameron called it a “rollercoaster,” while Clarita noted that they were one of 30 applicants vying for the enviable storefront.

Halfway through February they found out they’d been approved, but it wasn’t until the end of March that the paperwork was in order and they could get to work making the space retail ready — that included everything from demolition and repairs to putting on the fine touches.

Doing nearly all the work themselves — with some help from family — the Thralls reopened The Pickled Kitchen on April 29, just in time for Lost in the ’50s, which is always Sandpoint’s unofficial kickoff to the summer season.

“We did this in about a month,” Clarita said, nodding to the newly revamped space, with its open, airy feel, high ceilings and ample natural light from both skylights and large street-facing windows.

The centerpiece of the shop is a collection of metal racks stacked with rows of pickled items — including everything from traditional pickles to pickled snow peas, pickled carrots, pickled mushrooms, pickled okra, pickled asparagus, onions and garlic, even pickled Brussels sprouts and quail eggs (in both mild and spicy options).

All that’s in addition to a wide range of olives, including garlic- and habanero-stuffed varieties; olive oils from Tunisia and balsamic vinegars from Italy; hot sauces and seasonings; jams, dips and spreads; and honey — the latter sourced from Priest River-based Bear Paw Honey, whose flavors like Northeast Oregon wildflower, mint, buckwheat, blueberry and blackberry come from harvesting hives that have been placed next to their various crops.

“You really can pickle anything,” said Clarita, adding that her favorites in the store are the pickled Brussels sprouts, snow peas and okra.

Cameron said that the popularity of pickled products has increased over time in large part because they’re cost effective and reduce food waste. His go-to products in the shop are the garlic- and habanero-stuffed olives and, above all else, the smoky mozzarella garlic dip.

(My own 7-year-old daughter is an avid fan of the “pickle on a stick,” which is precisely what it sounds like: a huge pickle on a stick, which can also be paired with a number of toppings and costs $2.50. My daughter calls it a “pick-cicle.”)

The Thralls carry as much local product as they can — and plan to add more — while the pickling and packaging is done by a third-party that specializes in small-batch production.

Cameron said he’s keen to incorporate coffee to the shop, and is working with Athol-based KN Roasters. The Thralls are also open to local picklers bringing in their products; but, of course, they have to be approved first by health authorities.

“Now that we have more space, it’s nice to be able to have more local products,” Clarita said, while Cameron added that local products simply sell better, too.

“They want it to say ‘North Idaho’ on it,” he said.

At first glance, a retail space geared toward pickled goods might seem ultra-niche, but Clarita said The Pickled Kitchen’s offerings are perfectly situated to serve any number of gourmet purposes, including charcuterie boards, martini bars and appetizers — perfect for improving the spread at any special event or occasion.

“I always love food as a gift,” she added.

The Thralls also know just how well artisanal provisions actually sell. Both were raised in Florence, Ore., where Clarita’s parents own and operate three olive stores under the moniker All About Olives. Growing up, Clarita, who is now 30, managed the storefront and saw the potential.

“But I love pickles,” she said. “I was the kid who always took people’s pickles off their plates. My mom used to give me a jar of pickles for Christmas.”

She and Cameron, 32, moved to Wyoming for a time, where Cameron drove a garbage truck in Jackson. They contemplated opening The Pickled Kitchen there, but retail space was at an even greater premium. Visiting friends in North Idaho, they also thought about Coeur d’Alene, but found it too big and busy. 

Coming to Sandpoint, the Thralls had “the experience” of crossing the Long Bridge, seeing the mountains and experiencing downtown.

“We were already planning on opening this somewhere — we just didn’t quite know where,” Clarita said, but added that she and Cameron knew from the get-go that Sandpoint was it. 

“We opened pretty much as soon as we moved here,” she said.

Looking ahead, the Thralls said they plan to further pursue coffee, as well as add kitchenware at some point. Monthly events may be on the horizon, with tastings and potentially live music. 

For now, though, they want to keep it as simple as possible while they settle into their new First Avenue space.

“Pickles are a safe bet,” Cameron said.