The Sandpoint Eater: So cleaver

By Marcia Pilgeram
Reader Columnist

I brought home a new kitchen tool last week — a six-inch cleaver — and I can’t stop smiling every time I wrap my hand around the smooth grip. This should not surprise my children; I’ve always been a bit of a kitchen outlaw, but yes, they all had a little something to say about my newest purchase. 

It seems they are convinced that, at 70 years old, I should be downsizing — not reaching for something that looks like it could double as a deadly weapon. I have assured them, especially the oldest and bossiest one (Ryanne), that I won’t be practicing any theatrics with it. Yet.

“You’re a danger with that thing, Mom.” 

I’ve heard that reference a few times before — once when wielding my plumber-sized blowtorch to ignite a baked Alaska (in Ryanne’s home) — but it doesn’t faze me. And if I do any entertaining that requires both blowtorch and cleaver, I promised to keep pre-dinner cocktails to a minimum. 

(It’s true, there have been some incidents with the blowtorch, but none have ever required a call to 911, and really all I ever scorched — at Ryanne’s house, that is — was a worn dish towel that needed replacing anyhow.)

It’s really quite surprising that after spending decades in professional kitchens, I never owned a cleaver. I’ve been through plenty of chef’s knives, boning knives, and slicers with blades worn thin from years of slicing onions and deli meats. But never a cleaver. Somewhere along the way, I decided they were bulky, unnecessary, didn’t fit a knife roll and maybe a little too theatrical.

Turns out, I was wrong.  

After following a couple of fabulous Instagram chefs (who are, in fact, a bit theatrical), I was mesmerized by the grace and efficiency they possessed when handling this oversized tool. The weight of the cleaver does the work for them. The wide blade chops like a dream and doubles as a scoop when they swoop up the chopped pieces and slide them effortlessly into a sizzling pan. There’s rhythm and flair to their movements; and, after some practice, I hope I can handle my own cleaver as effortlessly. 

I did promise the girls that I’ll keep a guard on the blade when practicing tossing and catching by the handle (I’m not there yet). It’s the next best thing to a kitchen power tool, which may explain why I like it so much.

The day after my purchase, I began perusing the meat section at a local market and eyed an oversized package of boneless chicken thighs (on sale!). I brought them home and initiated the cleaver. Since I had no menu in mind at the time, I packaged them up for future stir-fry and soup projects. Sadly, I didn’t get the endorphin rush I had hoped for, so the next day I headed back to the market, where I spied a nice big boneless pork roast. I had it in my cart before I could say, Marcia, stop! Your freezers are full.

There was something deeply satisfying about breaking down the big roast with the big cleaver. It was all I had hoped for. And more. But, wow — six pounds of boneless pork roast yields a lot of cubes.

Luckily, during said chopping frenzy, I remembered that I’ll be meeting up with the multi-generational clan for a Nordic skiing weekend in Priest Lake in a couple of weeks. And soon enough, visions of pozole verde danced in my head.  It’s a win-win for me. Pozole takes hours, so I will sacrifice outdoor time to stand by the warm stove, stirring the pot and providing a tasty hot meal for the non-vegetarian skiers. Even 5-year-old granddaughter Runa may partake in pozole, as she recently shared with me that she’s still a vegetarian, but now eats sausage!

Pozole, a hearty stew-type soup, is one of Mexico’s oldest dishes, often enjoyed as a celebration food and commonly served on holidays, birthdays and long weekends. I have prepared it many times for Super Bowl gatherings. You might enjoy it at your upcoming Super Bowl gathering as well.

No cleaver? You can be almost as clever with a sharp knife.


Pozole verde

Great flavorful and spicy one-pot meal for a crowd. Complementary condiment additions are endless. Start early — the longer it cooks the better it tastes. No cleaver? Use a sharp knife. Serves 8 or so.

Ingredients:

• 2 lbs boneless pork shoulder (or loin roast), cut into 1-inch cubes with a sharp clever.
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 1 large sweet onion, rough chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 (14.5 oz) cans green enchilada sauce
• 2 (15.5 oz) cans hominy, drained and rinsed
• ½ cup diced green chiles (canned or fresh roasted, peeled and chopped)
• 4 cups chicken broth (plus more water if needed)
• 2 tsp dried oregano
• 2 tsp ground cumin
• ½ tsp cayenne pepper
• ½ tsp salt (or to taste)
• ¼ cup fresh cilantro, chopped

Directions:

Brown the pork: Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the cubed pork and cook, stirring, until it is browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Keep skillet on stove. Place the browned pork into a 4-quart dutch oven. Pour in the chicken broth, adding enough water to ensure all the ingredients are well-covered, if necessary.

In the skillet, cook the onion until soft. Add the garlic and green chilies, until soft. Add to the meat. Cover and cook for 1-2 hours, until the pork is very tender. 

Pour green enchilada sauce over the meat, stir, cover and cook another hour or so. Stir in cumin, oregano and cayenne pepper. Add hominy and cook until the hominy takes on flavor. 

Stir in the fresh cilantro and salt to taste just before serving. 

Ladle the hot pozole into bowls and serve with traditional bowls of garnish that add texture and flavor, like shredded green cabbage, thinly sliced radishes, diced avocado, lime wedges, additional chopped cilantro and/or onions. Serve with tortillas or cornbread.

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