The Sandpoint Eater: Ode to oregano

By Marcia Pilgeram
Reader Columnist

While most of my perennials were quite inconsistent this spring, a fragrant patch of oregano thrives not far from my leafy red rhubarb plant. My youngest daughter, Casey, planted it on Mother’s Day nearly 20 years ago. Lucky for me, it’s hardy and has withstood harsh winters and my lackadaisical approach to gardening, growing happily between a lavender plant and lemon thyme.

Native to Mediterranean Europe, oregano is a flowering shrub of the mint family. There are myriad varieties of oregano with a distinctive aroma and intense flavor, making it a perfect herb for many types of savory foods. I’ve heard that older plants can lose their taste, but that’s certainly not the case with mine.

It’s one of my favorite herbs to incorporate as a fresh ingredient all summer. I toss it in Greek dressings, chop it for crispy lemon chicken or add it with feta as a topping to oven-roasted potatoes. But, of course, I harvest a lot of it, too, before it begins to flower, first drying it and then adding the leaves to homemade Italian seasoning for sauces and herbes de Provence for hearty winter soup, stew and cassoulet.

Greek oregano is considered the true oregano due to its strong flavor. It is the prized oregano for Greek, Italian and Spanish cuisine, and it is popular in pizza and pasta (and Italian sauces). I’m not sure of the provenance of my sturdy plant, but it makes the perfect addition to all the cuisines I try to master, including spicy Argentinian chimichurri. 

I love the aroma of this aromatic herb and was especially delighted when, years ago, I came upon acres of it, growing wild and blooming on a sunny hillside in Italy, grazed upon by young cows in their sleek summer coats. 

It had never occurred to me that it was more than an herb garden occupant and, even now, when I catch a whiff of my small patch, it draws me back to that long-ago fragrant field of bovines foraging in the Italian countryside.

I’ve since learned that those clever (and handsome) Italian cattlemen might have been on to something. Recent research shows that oregano is an excellent supplement for cattle and chickens, and compounds in oregano may actually have antibacterial and other medicinal properties. It is also being studied by researchers from Aarhus University, in Denmark, to see if adding oregano to cattle feed can reduce the production of methane gas in the rumen of cattle, thus reducing methane gas production. So far, their research is quite promising; and, today, various livestock feeds and supplements contain oregano.

It’s good for us humans, too. For centuries, Mediterranean cultures have prescribed oregano as a medicinal herb. Now you can find a plethora of essential oils and extracts derived from oregano that contain potent antioxidants that may benefit the cardiovascular and nervous systems, as well as relieve inflammation.

In ancient times, oregano symbolized happiness and was used to combat sadness. It was also thought to bring luck to the Greek Goddess Aphrodite. So, besides being an aromatic flavor enhancer, this little plant packs a lot of history and potential health benefits into our lives.

With that in mind, this diminutive, unique plant may deserve more reverence in my garden. Although, on second thought, it has thrived for 20+ years in its present location with little tending, so it may be best left to grow on its own (with a little additional thanks and praise from this accidental gardener).

I hope you’ll whip up a batch of this cool and crisp summer salad. You know who to thank…

Greek orzo salad recipe • Chill all the ingredients, as salad is best when vegetables are crispy. A great vegetarian salad, or add grilled chicken or shrimp as an entrée addition. Serves 6.

Ingredients

For Salad:

• 8 ounces orzo pasta 

• 1 lemon, juiced

• ½ medium red onion, finely diced

• 2 firm cucumbers, partially peeled, seeded and diced (about 1½ cups diced)

• 8 oz cherry tomatoes, halved

• 6 oz pitted kalamata olives, drained

• 6 oz roasted red pepper, drained, rinsed, patted dry and diced

• 8 oz feta cube (best packed in brine), drained and crumbled 

• kosher salt and ground black pepper

For Dressing:

• ½ cup Greek yogurt (I use full-fat)

• 1 lemon, zested and juiced

• 2 cloves garlic, finely minced

• 2 tbs finely chopped fresh oregano 

• ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

• kosher salt and ground black pepper, to season

Directions

Cook the orzo: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Once boiling, add 1 tbs olive oil and the orzo. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the orzo is cooked to just al dente, according to package directions. Drain and immediately rinse with cold water. Chill until ready to use. 

Chop red onion, cut tomatoes, dice the cucumbers, drain olives. Once all of your ingredients are prepped, add to a glass bowl and toss with the lemon juice.

For dressing, whisk the Greek yogurt, lemon zest and juice, and olive oil until smooth. Add chopped oregano and garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Whisk until well mixed. Taste and adjust seasoning. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator until read to use. 

Assemble Greek orzo pasta salad: To a large bowl, add the orzo, red onion, tomatoes, cucumber, olives, roasted red pepper and feta. Pour dressing over top. Toss to combine. Taste and adjust seasonings as desired. Chill until ready to serve.  Garnish with lemon slices and fresh oregano sprigs. 

Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to three days.