By Soncirey Mitchell
Reader Staff
Keeping plants happy in summer heatwaves is no small feat, and, if done incorrectly, it can balloon water bills to ridiculous proportions. Balancing time, money and a garden’s needs can be tricky; but, in this case, what’s best for one is best for all.
Conserving water in a heat wave starts with knowing when and how to water. To minimize evaporation, water plants in the evening or early morning when it’s cool and there’s less direct sunlight on the soil. At these times of day, it can be tempting to hit plants with the hose for five minutes and then head back inside for coffee or a nightcap, as the case may be, but that doesn’t help plants combat drought and heat.
The best method for watering a garden is low and slow — little water, applied close to the soil for an extended period of time. This strategy ensures that water doesn’t pool and run off, but rather seeps deep into the soil, where it takes longer to dry out. Roots will follow the water, so the deeper it goes, the deeper the plants dig and the more sturdy and drought-resistant they become — and the less you’ll have to water.
An example of a garden drip watering kit available at most landscaping and hardware stores. Courtesy photo
The time it takes to water will depend on how absorbent the soil is, the temperature outside and the amount of water the hose is dispensing. To gauge a garden’s needs, start by watering as you normally would, then wait five minutes to give the water time to sink into the ground. Afterward, poke a finger, trowel or stick into the soil to see how far the water has permeated. A deeply watered garden should have six to eight inches of moist soil. If it’s not even close, keep watering.
Achieving that level of water absorption takes time, which is why it’s easier to install a drip irrigation system rather than water by hand. Depending on the size and shape of your garden, DIY kits can cost anywhere from $50 to $200. It can be more cost-effective to buy the individual parts from a garden store if you have a lot of ground to cover. Either way, you’ll need tubing — most commonly ¼-inch — a hose connector, a pressure regulator and water emitters. To make things extra easy, throw in another $50 for an automatic timer.
Drip irrigation systems deliver small, controlled amounts of water directly to the roots. Unlike conventional sprinklers, little is lost to evaporation because the water doesn’t have to fly through the air or sit on plants’ leaves. This also helps prevent common diseases like powdery mildew, which thrives in moisture on the leaves.
There are hundreds of ways to customize a drip system to suit pots, raised beds or conventional gardens and the plants they contain. Porous soaker hoses and drip hoses with evenly spaced punctures work best for rows of crops, as they can cover a large area. Plants spaced farther apart can benefit from individual water emitters staked near their roots, which can drip, mist or spray a small area. Targeted emitters only water the intended plant, minimizing waste and combating weed growth.
Regardless of how you water, best practice is to add one to two inches of mulch to the garden to lock in moisture, regulate soil temperature and minimize weeds. Spread it around plants, leaving space at the bases so the mulch doesn’t inhibit their growth or provide a cozy home for pests right next to the stems.
Most garden stores sell bags of organic mulch made from dye-free woodchips, but there are plenty of materials around the house or shop that work just as well, if not better. Chopped-up pine needles, leaves, straw, compost and coarse sawdust can all make good mulches. When making mulch at home, try to keep the elements chunky. Fine sawdust or ground leaves can matt together, forming a barrier that actually repels water and smothers plants. Good mulch is absorbent and loose-textured.
Though it will cost more initially, crafting a good system that conserves water will make for healthier plants, fewer weeds and a lower water bill in the long run.
