The Sandpoint Eater: A great date

By Marcia Pilgeram
Reader Columnist

I’ve had some great dates; some of the most memorable were in Niles, a suburb of Chicago. In my private chef-train days, I spent much time in Chicago, preparing the private trains for charters. Still, it wasn’t until daughter Casey moved to Chicago and started dating her Egyptian boyfriend-now-husband John that I discovered the date mecca of Chicago, introduced to me by her future mother-in-law Mirfat: Jerry’s Fruit and Garden. Jerry’s has existed for almost 50 years and the market caters to the demand for multi-ethnic ingredients.  

Niles isn’t too far from Chicago O’Hare International Airport, and it will come as no surprise that more than once (particularly around the holidays), I planned my flight home around Jerry’s store hours. On my way to the airport, I’d stop and fill a suitcase (or two) with edible treasures, such as white asparagus, baby artichokes, exotic peppers and fresh dates. I have always been a big fan of dates. I love them as a quick snack and a favorite ingredient for baking sweets or savory appetizers. 

Jerry’s was a date haven, where mounds of loose Medjool, Halawi, Khadrawy, Thoory and Deglet Noor cultivars were piled high in artful displays. There was also an entire aisle dedicated to packaged dates. One year, early in my discovery of Jerry’s, I couldn’t resist the imported dates packaged in ornate red-and-gold boxes. I loaded up on these, a tasteful and unique Christmas gift for friends and family alike. 

That was the year I learned that none of my progeny is particularly fond of dates. My good friend Mary was the only person who was smitten with my haul. We powered through a few of those fancy boxes and, lucky for me, dates have a long shelf life. 

Last year, I wandered through the vast halls of the Spice Bazaar in Istanbul and discovered even more varieties, primarily of Iranian and Iraqi origin, that you won’t find grown in the U.S. Like our beloved huckleberries, some date cultivars, such as Sayer, Rabbi and Piarom, do not grow well away from their motherland and mountainous homes. Thus, their limited production makes them some of the most expensive varieties in the world. I was in heaven sampling these sweet and sticky delicacies. 

Closer to home, you can fill all your date desires in Southern California, which is the central production region of Medjool and Deglet Noor dates in the U.S. The Medjool is the most delicious for a quick nosh, while the less expensive Deglet Noor is more versatile, and best for baking. 

If you’ve ever driven through the Coachella Valley — the “date capital of the U.S” — chances are you’ve indulged in a much-hyped date shake, the perfect cool treat on a hot day. 

A recent discovery is the butter-filled Medjool date, finished with a sprinkling of sea salt flakes (even daughter Ryanne had heard about these, though she’s still loath to try them). I first saw this style of date preparation on Instagram (after it went viral on TikTok) and had to give it a go. 

I split and seeded the dates, added a scant teaspoon of soft Kerrygold butter, and finished with a slight dusting of Maldon smoked sea salt flakes. They were a lovely complement to my cheese board and quite tasty when served alongside a freshly baked, crisp sourdough loaf. If you try them, you might agree that they’re also quite addictive. 

Stuffed, pitted or pulverized, dates are so good! And so good for us, too. They’re high in potassium and fiber, and contain vitamins, protein and minerals. They do have a high sugar content, but still, it’s natural sugar. 

There are myriad ways to use dates — as endless as your imagination. You can enjoy them fresh or dried, stuffed with all kinds of delicious fillings, cooked into a paste, or glazed with chocolate or honey.

They’re the oldest recorded fruit in history, and remain (despite my children) very popular with plenty of people. I know someone besides me is eating them because the annual world production is about 9 million tons.                                                                              

Aside from a snacking stash in my pocket, my preferred way to enjoy dates is stuffing them with cheese, encasing them in bacon, and cooking until they’re nice and crispy. Give them a try. Who can resist the thought of a great date?

Bacon-wrapped stuffed dates
The options with this easy, crowd-pleasing appetizer are endless, depending on your personal palate. Substitute Boursin for plain goat cheese or half Parmesan. Mix red pepper flakes or finely chopped pecans to the cheese before stuffing, or add a whole roasted almond before wrapping in bacon. Yield — 2 ½ to 3 dozen — will vary, depending on the size of the dates. I often make 3-4 batches and carefully wrap and freeze the extra, uncooked (thaw before cooking).

Ingredients:

• 1 pound bacon strips, cut in half, lengthwise

• 5.2 ounce container Boursin cheese

• 28-32 dates, pitted

• Toothpicks

Directions:

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with heavy duty foil or parchment paper, set aside. 

Cut long slits into the side of the date and remove the pits. Use a small spoon to stuff a scant teaspoon of cheese into the date. Lay out the lengths of bacon, the Boursin and the dates.

Wrap a piece of bacon around the date, make sure to completely cover/encase the date with the bacon, so the cheese doesn’t escape. Secure with a toothpick. Repeat with remaining dates. 

Bake for 20-25 minutes. Either rotate at 12 minutes from top shelf to bottom shelf, or flip the dates halfway through, cooking until bacon is crispy (but not burned). Serve warm or at room temperature. 

Great as they are, or serve with sweet chili sauce or drizzle of honey.