More than craft beer

By Ben Olson
Reader Staff

Indecision can sometimes be fortuitous. Early in the planning process for what would become Utara Brewing Co., husband-and-wife owners Dave Kosiba and Christina Stecher were split on what direction they wanted to take their new business.

The Curry Sampler at Utara Brewing Co. Photo by Ben Olson.

With his work in the craft beer industry, Kosiba wanted to go the brewery route, but his Stecher wanted a fast-casual Indian eatery.

“We said, ‘What are we doing? Let’s just do this,’ and we combined the two,” Kosiba said. “It’s actually common in England to have a curry ale house.”

The result of the pairing is a thoughtful, unique venture in Sandpoint. Evidence of the Indian theme can be seen everywhere, from the menu to the elephants on the logo to the very name Utara, which means “of the north” in Sanskrit.

“I lived in Indonesia for 10 years post-college and my wife interned in India as a hospitality specialist,” Kosiba said. “She really saw a need in this community for a certain type of food that hadn’t been offered.”

Stetcher and Kosiba first learned their flavor profiles and developed a menu while studying under a native-born Indian cooking instructor in Seattle 10 years ago.

“Unlike most Indian cuisine that’s been Americanized with lots of clarified butter, fat and salt flavors, we chose to migrate more towards how one might cook at home,” Kosiba said.

The brewery opened in the old Lightning Lube building at 214 Pine St. in Sandpoint in June 2018 and rolled out slowly, hoping to build momentum in the competitive world of craft brewing through word of mouth.

The large bay doors through which cars used to exit and enter the former-oil change station now offer the brewery-eatery an open, breezy feel. There is still a garage feel to the building, with the original stained concrete floor and old signage offering “10-minute service.” Outdoor seating is available next to a hop garden along Pine Street and behind the building, providing a comfortable atmosphere for a casual pint and a bite.

Utara’s core beers — which range from Czech lagers to IPAs to porters and stouts — are usually named after something distinctly North Idaho: Two Mouths Pale Ale, Mineral Point New England IPA, Maiden Rock IPA, Pine Street Porter and more. Aside from the regular offerings, Utara has committed to releasing a new beer every Monday.

One recent Monday release was the Tangerine Lager, a light, not-too-fruity brew with a crisp finish. We also ordered the Ginland Northwest IPA, which boasts a unique tinge of gin flavor owing to its brewing process, which includes chips of gin barrel staves.

As for food, the chips vindaloo is one of four types of chips (or fries, as we call them on this side of the pond) tossed with traditional Indian flavors. It’s a simple dish easy to share with friends for only $6.50, and the zesty vindaloo sauce brings it to a higher plane.

The pakora roll was one of our favorites. The fried snack is best described as an Indian gyro, containing tikka masala, fontina cheese, cabbage, pickled onions, yogurt and cilantro-serrano chutney wrapped in savory naan. At only $7, this could easily be a meal for one.

We also ordered samosas, the traditional Indian pastry pocket with savory filling. These came in a close second, thanks to from-scratch pastry and two delicious dipping sauces.

Finally, we ordered the curry sampler, which included small portions of dal makhani, saag and tikka masala. Patrons can order rice, or do as we did and just get an extra order of naan to dip into the curry. The sampler is also a bargain at $8.

We left after spending only $40 on two pints and four dishes — way too much food for only two diners, but that’s what the doggy bag is for, right? Chefs Cory Lobdell and Amanda Wion deserve much praise for their dishes. Utara also offers a multitude of gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian options.

As if the food and drink offerings weren’t enough, music lovers have enjoyed Utara’s intimate After Hours concerts this summer. 

Kosiba said Mike Nunke from Full Circle Productions has taken charge of the music booking.

“Mike and I have been in the music industry in the past and we know how tough it is to find a ‘listening room’ in Sandpoint with people paying attention to the music,” Kosiba said. “We just want to offer a different vibe than the bar thing. People don’t walk in and get rowdy. You pay your money to come in and support the music.”

For a small cover — usually $10, which goes directly to the musicians — listeners can check out some excellent artists performing under the broad Americana musical genre. The next show on the schedule is duo When Particles Collide on Sunday, Sept. 29 from 6:30-9:30 p.m. Find Utara on Facebook for a full lineup of shows.

Utara Brewing Co. is open Monday-Thursday from 12-8 p.m., Friday-Saturday from 12-9 p.m. and closed Sundays (except when an After Hours music show is planned). Learn more at utaraidaho.com or call 208-627-5070.